The perfect wave

“Cold salt water touches your toes and rays of sunshine warm your skin as you see the waves break in front of you. A deep breath and you slide into the ocean. Paddling closer and closer towards, what makes you feel most alive. You see the perfect wave coming right at you and you know, the moment is now. With the balance in your blood, you’re feeling like the lord of the ocean as you’re surfing the perfect wave.”

A collection of surfers in Australia, Spain and Portugal.